This brightly flavoured condiment traditionally highlights the delicate flavours of fish with the energetic punch of sharp horseradish and bright lemon. Try it. You’ll forget you ever met its bland, sugar-laden, store-bought cousins.

Yield: Makes 1 large jar, 4 cups

Ingredients

1 28 ounce can whole ripe tomatoes
1 5.5 ounce can tomato paste
several large heaping spoonfuls horseradish
2 lemons, zest and juice
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
as much as you like Tabasco Sauce
a sprinkle or two salt

Procedure

Blend everything in a food processor or blender. Not too smooth though; leave it slightly chunky.

Variation

Unless it’s tomato season in my backyard, I prefer the field-ripe flavour of canned tomatoes to the bland hardness of their fresh cousins. For a touch of complementary herb flavour, add a handful of minced fresh dill, cilantro or basil.